Sewing-machine.



G. S. HILL.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DBO. a, 1913.

1 094 9 Patented Apr. 28, 1914.

3 SHEETS-SHEET l.

G. S. HILL.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC.8,1913.

1,094,896, Patented Apr. 28, 191% 3 SHEETSFSHEET 2.

,Zzgperptar: QQ L AM! G. S. HILL.

SEWING MAOHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEG.8,1913.

1,094,896, Patented Apr. 28, 1914.

3 SHEETS BHEET 3.

ZEWGM' ,QWWWWWMZ STATES enonon s. HILL, or s'rnnrronn," NEW PATENT OFFICE.

' HAMPSHIRE, ASSIGNO-R' TO UNITED sHoE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORBORATION QF NEW JERSEY. w

"mech'anis'm' operates to form overseam the waste end which The primary object. of the invention is to provide novel" nd'iinproved means for holdmg 0i" serfefifigl and holding the sewing thread in' a mac ine of this type which will be -uni fomnly reliable in its operation, and which'willso coo erate with the stitch form: ing mechanism t at trimming of the waste end of thread extending from the init al 'stitch of the seam will be unnecessary.

T0 these ends, one feature of the invention contemplates the provision in a machine formin overseam stitches of means for holdingthe endot the thread, or for severhe end of the .thread at etion o r va s v ing operation in pbsitioiiitdbe coveredf b the stitchs of the seam at the beginnin 6f the next sewing operation. When they thread is thus held, 7 leads from the thread holder to the initial stitch of the seam at the beginning of the sewing is covered by the stitches 'bf the seam, thus avoiding the necessity of trimming or cutting away the waste end, and also givinga better finish to the seam. It desirable that the thread be severed as close to the finished surface of the work as=practicable, and it is preferred therefore in embodying the invention in a machine inwhich the'work is held by a.v vertically movable workclainp, to so mount the holding and cutting device that it may rise and fall with the clamp. 'This enables the cutter and holder to act on the thread closeto the work when theclamp-is closed, and to rise to accommodate the vertical -movement of the clamp when the clamp Specification of Letters Patent.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Patented A /2s, 1914.

Application aim Deccinter a, 1913. Serial No. 805,314.

the invention also includes further novel features of construction and combinations of parts hereinafter described and set forth in the claims, the advantages of which will be apparent to those skilled in the art. The features of the invention will be understood from an inspection of the accom- 1 panying drawings, and the following de- I tailed description of the mechanism illus-. trated therein.

In the drawings Figure 1 is a vertical sectional elevation showing so much of a huttonhole sewing machine as is necessary'to illustrate the embodiment of the invention 4 therein; Fig. 2 is a detail plan View show ing the thread cutting and holding devices;- 7 Fig.3 is a sectional elevation of the same; Figs. 4- and; 4 are detail sectional viewsshowing parts of' the thread holding and. cutting devices; Fig. 5 is a detail elevation? "showing the position of the parts after a few stitches have been sewed at the beginning of= the sewing. ope-ration; Fig. 6 is a'similan' view showing the position of the parts after V i the sewing has been completed; and Figs. 7 to are diagrammatic plan views showing '80" the position of the thread holding and cutting devices with relation to the buttonhole' and seam at different stages. v In the drawings-'thc invention. is shown as embodied in a'buttonhole sewing machine" '86 having the construction and mode ofopera-f tion of the machine shown and described in Patent No. 1,063,880, dated June 3, 1913.; Inthis machine the stitch forming mecha-fnism comprises an upper needleZ eccehtri eally mounted in a vertically reciprocating;- needle bar 4, an under needle 6, anda 10,0 er; 8. The upper needle bar and the un er? needle and looper are mounted respectively in a rotary head and in a ,rotary turret h, which are rotated during the sewing abouts?? the end'and eye of abuttonhole. The workis held by clamps 10 pivotally mounted on" vplates 12 which are in turn mounted on a? clamp carrier 14. The 'clam carrier is moved longitudinally to bring t e work into j re Ler with the cutter or with the'sewing devices, and to feed the work during the. sewing, by a cam groove formed in the cam" at; gear 16. which makes one revolution tor each v ,L cyele of the machine. The clamp carrierds In addition to the features outlined above;

moved laterally, and the stitch forming; mechanism is rotated during sewingfi through suitable-connections from a gear 18- which makes one revolution during the sewjaws 26 and ing of the buttonhole The'cutter 20 is operated from a earn on the gear 16, and when operated to cut abuttonholefalso operates to close the clamps 10, which are held closed during the sewing by the latching device's indicated M22. The clamp isreleased and opened during its return to cuttingposition by a stationary cam'24, as fully described in the patent abore referred to,

At the completion of thes'ewin of a but tonhole the stitch forming mec anism isan then carry with the under edge of the which cooperates jaw 26 to sever the thread between the jaws and the work. These devices are mounted in a support 32 formed at the lower end of a rod 34 which is mounted toslidevertically in a bearing 36. The support is arranged at the rear of the sewing point and rests on one of the clamps 10 so it will rise .and fall with the clamp. It is also ranged at aninclination as s own, so that the thread gripping jaws threadat a point nearer the upper. surface of the work. the front end of a semi-cylindrical bar 38 which adjustably'secured' in the bore of the support 32 by a'serew 40. The jaw 28 is formed on the front end of .a'slide 42 mounts ed in the bore of'the support 32 abovethe bar'38, and provided with a depending pin 44 playing within a recessin the bar. A

sprmg'ti is arranged in the recess, and

tends to force the slide forward so that the jaw 28 is beyond the edge of the cutter30. The jaw. 26 is formed on the rear side of afinger 48 projecting laterally from a slide bar 50 .which fits within the-bode of the support .32 above thee utter bar 38 andto one side of ,thegripper slide 42. The front'part of the gripper bar-50 is. flattened and is engaged by aleaf spring which holds the bar firmly down against the upper surface of the cutter bar 38. ,A spring 54 is inter esed'betwe en the rear end 32 and.a fiangefiti on the bar 50', and tends to hold the. bar in retracted position. The bar is advanced at proper intervals by cams 58 and 60 on'th'e gear 16 arranged to engage the lower end of a lever 62. the upper end of wluchis connected with the barby a link (34.

' he connected-position theithread gripclamp 10 is closed in its lower position by the weight of the.

the sewing,

preferably armay engage the The cutter 30.is formed on;

ofthe support ping jaws is determined by a stop screw 66 on the lever 62 which-is arranged to engage a fixed stop 68.

During the sewing qf apbuttonhole the and the support 32 is held parts,or by a spring 70, so that the thread holding and'cutting devices may act on the thread, close tothe upper or finishediside of the work. Assuming that the sewing of the buttonhole has been nearly completed. the

gripping-jaws will be in their retraclt i position at therear of the sewing point, .-nd to that side of the buttonhole which is first sewed, or in a position corresponding to that indicated in Fig. 7. The cam '58 will act upon the lever 62 and will advance the gripper bar 50, so that when the stitch forming devices the parts will be in the position indicated in Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 9, with the jaw 26 in front of the upper-needle thread which leads from the seam down around the loopcr 8 and up through the work to the eye of the upper needle. :The jaw 28 .will be in its for- -wa rd position in iro'ntof thecutter 30- .\s

the cam 58'passes the lever 02 the gripper bar 50 will be retracted, and the jaw 26 will engage the thread and draw it against the jaw 28, so-that the thread will be gripped betweenth'c jaws. After tllc illl'tfid is thus gripped, the continued rearward movement of the gripperbar 50 will further retract the jaws,-carrying the thread against the cutter 30, so that it'avill be severed by the coiiperzr. tipn of the cutter with the lower ed go of the I jaw" 26. The position of the parts'afterlhe are stopped at the completion of thread has been thus severed is indicated in Fig. 6. Since .the' wastc end of thread leading from the-last stitch ofthe scam passes down about the looper, it will be drawn down through the work'to the under side when the work is moved to bring it into position for the cuttingand sewing of the succeeding buttonhole. The 'scvercd end of the needle thread willb'e held in 'the position indicated in Fig.7, ready for the beginning of the. next sewing operation. \Vhen the clamp is opened, the carrier 32' will rise with the clamp, but will return a the position indicated in Fig. 1 whe thc chimp is again closed upon the work. At the1b('-Iginning of the nextsuccecding sewing operation the end of the uppcrncedle thread-will lie held in the position indicated inFig. 'Z. as that it will lead from the initial needle hole to the ripping jaws in stitches iormedat the beginning ofthe'sc wl ng-epera tion will therefore .--be formed over a ling lyingjhetwecn the edge of the huttonluileandthe' path' of; the upper 'necdle in for'ming the-initial'stitches. The

the free-or-waste; end-of the upper needle thread-as the scam.- I smving'point and'grippcrs After amurnbcr of stitches have bceng romplctcd,ztliejcmnfi ra-vels,a w:iy from the j [the relative movements between the sewing mechanism and work are secured by moving the work clamp and rotafi3g the stitch forming mechanism, it will be understood. that the invention is not confined in its application to such machine, or to machines having the form of stitch forming devices shown and described, but may be embodied with advantage in machines in which the relative movements between the work and stitch formingdevices are otherwise effected,

.of stitch forming mechanism.

sea in stitches.

or in machines embodying different forms It will also he understood that the specific construction and arrangement of the thread severing and thread holding devices shown anddescribed is not essential, and may be varied and modified aiwithout departing from the broader features of the invention.

Having explained the nature and object of the invention, and specifically described one form of machine in which it may be embodied, what I claim is:

1. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprisinga needle and devices cooperating therewith to form overseam stitches, and devices for severingthe needle thread and holding its end in position to be covered by the over- A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising, a needle and devices coiiperating therewithto form an overseam'stitch, and a thread cutter and holder arranged to hold the needle thread at the rear of the sewing point and in line with the initial part of the seam.

3. Y A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle anu devices cooperating therewith to form an overseanrstitch, devices for severing the thread and holding its end in position to be covered by the overseam stitches, and means for pperating the thread severing and holding devices to sever and hold .the thread at the completion of a sewing operation and to release the thread afterthe formation of the initial stitches at the beginning of a sewing operation.

4. A sewing machine, haying, 1n combination stitch forming mechanism including a term overseam-stitches and means for boldmg the end of the needle thread in position to he covered by the overseam.

tion, stitch forming mechanism including a needle and devices cooperating therewith to form overseam stitches, and a thread holder arranged to hold-the needle thread at the rear of the sewing point in position to be overstitched. i

6. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, feeding ments between the stitch forming mechanism and the work to form an overseam for holding the end of the sewing thread at the beginning of the sewing in position to be covered by the overseam. p

'Z. A sewingmachine, having, in combination. stitch forming mechanism, feeding mechanism for producing relative movements between the stitch forming mechanism and work to form an overseam about"v the edge of a buttonhole, thread severing and holding devices, and mechanism for actuating the devices to sever the sewing thread at the completion of a buttonhole and to hold the thread end in 'osition to he covered by the seam at the eginning of the succeeding buttonhole.

cutting and holding devices overlying the clamp mounted to move vertically with-fthe clamp and retained in fixed relation re the sewing point during the relative travel of the clamp and stitch forming meclya nism.

10.v A sewing. machine, havinggin combination, stitch for ning mechanism, a work clamp, mechani for relatively actuating the stitch formi g mechanism and work and fall with ,the clam it is opened and relation to the sewing point during th frelative travel of the clamp and stitch in ,ming mechanism.

11. A sewing m chine, having, in combineedle and devices cooperating therewith to 0 nation, stitch foaming mechanism, a work mechanism for producing relative move-.

8. A sewing machine, having, in combina .5. A sewing machine, having, in combina- ."so about the edge;of a buttonhole, and means the stitch forming mechanism and work cdamp to sew about a buttonhole, and thread" clamp to sew about a buttozihole, and thread I cutting and holding devices mounted to rise clamp, a, support abovethe work clamp, a

.cutter .on the support, a-gripper slide above the cutter, a coiiperating gripper bar, mechanism for advancing the bar to bring its gripping jaw into: position to engage the thread and for retracting the bar to draw the thread against the gripper slide and there a fter carry it againstthe cutter.

12. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a work clamp, a support above the work clamp, a

thread cutter on the support, a'bar providedthe s itch forming mechanism and clamp .to

sew about a buttonhole, a vertically movable support resting on the clamp and held in fixed ielation to the stitch formin mechauism during the relative travel of t e clamp and stitch forming mechanism, and thread severing and holding devices mounted on the support.

'14. sewingnichine, having, in combination, st-itch forming mechanism, a work clamp, 11 support above the work clamp, a thread cutter on the support, ahar provided with a gripping jaw arrangd to slide over the cutter, a cd perating grippingjaw, a cam and connections for-advancingthe bar to bring its jaw into thread engaging position, and a spring forretracting the bar to draw. the thread against the cooperating aw and cutter. I

15. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a work clamp, avertic'ally movable support above the work clamp, a cutter on the support, a bar provided with a gripping jaw arranged to slide over the cutter, a cooperating gripping jaw, andmeans for advancing and retracting the bar. GEORGE S. HILL. \Vitn'esses CHESTER E. Rooms, JOHN H. RIGBY. 

